San Miguel de Allende

Many in the US celebrate Cinco de Mayo today (it is actually a quiet holiday in most of Mexico) to the accompaniment of violins, trumpets, Spanish guitars, vihuelas and guitarrónes.

My mind recalls how, three weeks ago, I was serenaded by an eight-strong mariachi troupe in San Miguel’s plaza on my 40th birthday. They approached silently but purposefully from the shadows and doorways of colonial mansions bathed in early evening sunlight. All immaculately dressed in dapper cream pipe-legged breeches and short charro jackets festooned with flashy brass-coloured buttons. Soon, the sentimental lyrics to Las Mañanitas filled the thin air. The third time I’d heard them sung in my honour that same day.

“Estas son las mañanitas que cantaba el rey David
Hoy por ser día de tu santo te las cantamos aquí…”

On some evenings (usually Thursday through Sunday), mariachi gather under the portales that border the plaza on two sides. One or two from each troupe will roam the jardín looking for business. Check out Billie Mercer’s wonderful series of photographs. She captures the mood and bravado beautifully.

Not sure how long this broadcast will be available, but you can still listen to Neil McCarthy’s exploration into the roots of mariachi. The programme first aired on BBC Radio 4 on Friday.

Billie Mercer took a stroll through Colonia San Antonio in San Miguel de Allende on Friday evening.

She captured a great set of photos of the altars some of her neighbours have decorated in purple, black and white for Viernes de Dolores (Night of Sorrows), the Friday before Holy Week. Billie tells me it was a touching experience.

We’ll be renting a house in this same Colonia ourselves during April.

Colonial San Miguel is one of the best places to be in Mexico during Holy Week.

For a superb account of Semana Santa there, read our friend Isabella Tree’s Sliced Iguana: Travels in Mexico. Isabella’s is some of the best travel writing on Mexico I’ve ever read. She dedicates a whole chapter to Easter in San Miguel.