Campeche

July 27th, 2005

Looting of colonial treasures an epidemic

Eleven months ago, I first learned of the shocking increase in art robberies in Mexico and wrote about it here.

This week I received an email from Richard Perry, updating me on what is a growing national problem. Richard runs the Exploring Colonial Mexico website to compliment his wonderful books.

Until recently the Yucatan peninsula has been spared the robberies rampant elsewhere in Mexico, but that may be changing, especially since the recent restorations of retablos and religious art there have received widespread publicity.

San Francisco, Campeche

San Francisco, Campeche

Richard tells me that several colonial art works were recently stolen from the church of San Francisco – the original Franciscan mission on the esplanade just outside the city of Campeche.

Tlaxcala seems to be another current target for organised art robberies. On 22 June, a dozen oil paintings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries were taken from the Templo de San Antonio de Padua.

Security is just too expensive, so many churches now remain shut except for services.

Many churches were closed on a recent visit Richard made to Oaxaca when they should have been open, because of the threat of theft.

Now, only the sacristan keeps the key, and on his person day and night.

Unfortunately, shutting down the highly lucrative illegal trade in stolen art and antiquities, both nationally and internationally, still seems a long way off.

Filed in Campeche, Colonial Mexico

August 13th, 2004

The Walled City of Campeche

Campeche balconyTranquil and fortified Campeche was declared a World Heritage site five years ago.

It’s dignified straight lines and colonial facades are painted in pastel tones of blue, yellow and green.

The city boasts a genuinely preserved colonial centre and is virtually traffic free.

The locals are tempted out of their homes to hear the 6:30pm concert in the Parque Principal but just as quickly drift away afterwards, leaving the heart of the city deserted again by 10:00pm.

 Photo gallery

Filed in Campeche